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Help with Dandy Designer

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chris1429

Posts : 16
Join date : 2012-01-02
Location : Leeds, West Yorks

Help with Dandy Designer

Post by chris1429 on Wed 29 May 2013, 8:26 pm

Hi everyone, Just wondered if anyone has any tips for getting the Designer set up. I bought my lovely Dandy last year and have had gas struts fitted which helps with the beds but I struggle putting the door section up and down. I am only 5ft tall and I fear I may have to sell and try to get a type of trailer tent that is designed for one person to erect. Any tips or do you think it would be best to sell?

Thanks Chris
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navver

Posts : 1005
Join date : 2013-01-03

Re: Help with Dandy Designer

Post by navver on Wed 29 May 2013, 8:57 pm

Hi Chris, I bought a Designer 4 weeks ago and have no trouble getting it up and I'm only 6'4".

I assume you're struggling getting the door section airborne initially. Try putting the step under it on the kitchen side. That gets it slightly airborne and makes it easier to pull up.

I assume you've seen the video.

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Also clean the inside of the roof with CIF and polish either with Mr Sheen or silicon spray. Also do the roof supports. This makes it easier for th eroof to slide and you will be amazed at how much that helps. You can cleamn the roof with it just laid on top of the trailer.

You can step inside the door to fit the centre roof bar when you've lifted the kitchen wall.

I keep one of the settee back supports handy (by storing them on the table) to lift the roof occasionally if it doesn't sit right.
Helen
Helen
Dandy Owner

Posts : 6837
Join date : 2011-06-12

Re: Help with Dandy Designer

Post by Helen on Wed 29 May 2013, 10:08 pm

I'm sure I saw someone use a rope (think it was washing line actually and possibly Eilis) It was tied to the bracket where the centre roof pole fits but pulled over so it sat on top of the door when the dandy was folded ...... it meant the door section could be pulled up via the rope by one person.

sent you a pm Chris.
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fearful wizard

Posts : 263
Join date : 2011-12-06
Age : 68
Location : Lincoln Lincolnshire

Re: Help with Dandy Designer

Post by fearful wizard on Wed 29 May 2013, 10:16 pm

Yes i do that with my discovery, i have tied a loop on the end of the rope pass it over the top of the door and hook it onto the two small projecting tubes and pull the door section up that way. Pete
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chris1429

Posts : 16
Join date : 2012-01-02
Location : Leeds, West Yorks

Dandy Designer

Post by chris1429 on Thu 30 May 2013, 1:37 pm

Thanks everyone, I have cleaned and polished it as instructed. I have also got two foam cushions that I place under the door to prevent damage if it falls. I have been using a pole to lift door but when I am tired even that is hard, I haven't thought of using a rope this sounds like a good idea will try in July when I next take it out. Any ideas of keeping the roof out of the way whilst lowering the door section when packing up?

Thanks Chris
Helen
Helen
Dandy Owner

Posts : 6837
Join date : 2011-06-12

Re: Help with Dandy Designer

Post by Helen on Thu 30 May 2013, 2:19 pm

perhaps a soft broom to lift the roof in one hand the the rope to lower the door in the other scratch

could you leave the step out and stand on it to lift the roof so it lips over the door, hang onto the string and lower it slightly before stepping off the step to lower it all the way ?
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navver

Posts : 1005
Join date : 2013-01-03

Re: Help with Dandy Designer

Post by navver on Thu 30 May 2013, 2:25 pm

Pull the roof as far to the right as you can before lowering the kitchen wall then I hold and lower the door section with one hand and try and keep the roof as clear as possible with the other using the settee back support pole. They are lightweight and easy to control with one hand.

Once the door section is below the roof you can use both hands to lower it fully.

Helen did suggest another method of folding the roof in here. That may be easier.

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mike
mike
Dandy Owner

Posts : 5172
Join date : 2011-06-12
Age : 70
Location : north east lincs

Re: Help with Dandy Designer

Post by mike on Thu 30 May 2013, 2:38 pm

This is going to be difficult to explain,if you use one of the brass eyelets near the centre of the roof and take a piece of guy line with 12 inches of bungee tied on the end from the eyelet down to a fixing button,this needs to be fairly tight.
You will find this holds the roof in place but with the bit of bungee there is enough give to be able to fold the sides down.

mike
Helen
Helen
Dandy Owner

Posts : 6837
Join date : 2011-06-12

Re: Help with Dandy Designer

Post by Helen on Thu 30 May 2013, 3:50 pm

I wouldn't recommend folding the roof in with one person ..... you need someone both sides to fold it in as you go and if there's only one of you you could end up in a mess.
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navver

Posts : 1005
Join date : 2013-01-03

Re: Help with Dandy Designer

Post by navver on Thu 30 May 2013, 4:55 pm

Just a thought, is there any possibility of fitting a gas strut (or 2) on the door wall to help
mike
mike
Dandy Owner

Posts : 5172
Join date : 2011-06-12
Age : 70
Location : north east lincs

Re: Help with Dandy Designer

Post by mike on Thu 30 May 2013, 5:10 pm

navver wrote:Just a thought, is there any possibility of fitting a gas strut (or 2) on the door wall to help

I ask this a while ago but got no uptake,would have thought it should be possible.

mike
Tow Itch
Tow Itch
Dandy Expert

Posts : 3183
Join date : 2011-06-20
Location : Leigh Gtr Manchester

Re: Help with Dandy Designer

Post by Tow Itch on Fri 31 May 2013, 9:10 am

navver wrote:Just a thought, is there any possibility of fitting a gas strut (or 2) on the door wall to help

Hello Chris.

I quite frequently erect and collapse my Designer single handedly.
Even without struggling with lifting the end sections it's a pain in the ar..... neck. The number of steps to complete when you are on your own and going from one end of the Dandy to the other does drive you to distraction.
I'm a foot taller than you but due to multiple stomach surgery my stomach muscles are shot and lifting the door or window ends even when I have a helper on the other side can occasionally leave me feeling sick.
I did think about a unified idea to gas strut the beds and the end walls. Wondered if as the walls would be lighter than a 6 if one strut per end would work or if two would be better because of the possible twisting force through the void of the door and window. Also thought about the placing of the struts. You want minimum interference with the inside of the kitchen cupboards and you don't want a strut near the door to push that far out into the floor that you could trip over it. Do you space as per the wall struts on the 6 [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] in a floor to wall arrangement or do you place in a wall to wall arrangement? Fortunately the suppliers of gas struts will help with a design facility [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] One required parameter of the design is a weight of the surface being moved. Well we are hardly likely to unscrew the walls and stick them on a scale. However I thought about this the other day. A spring balance could be used to determine the force required to lift the end of the wall. The advantage of this method is that unlike a crude weight a measurement of the force required allows for the height that the heavy window is placed at. A simple suitcase scale could be used.
One advantage of a custom designed scale rather than using the stock "Metro" struts is that should the weight be considerably less than the wall on the 6 you are not left having to sit on the walls to keep them folded before folding the beds.
If considering a wall to wall arrangement I'd ask about about it's resistance to the walls going beyond 1800
So that is as far as I have got thinking about this so far.


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