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Mennace

Posts : 18
Join date : 2013-05-24
Age : 25
Location : Hertfordshire

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Post by Mennace on Wed 12 Jun 2013, 12:50 am

*Removed 'cause I'm selling it! Smile


Last edited by Mennace on Sun 25 Aug 2013, 8:40 pm; edited 2 times in total (Reason for editing : It's being sold! :))
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Helen
Dandy Owner

Posts : 6826
Join date : 2011-06-12

Re: **********

Post by Helen on Wed 12 Jun 2013, 8:18 am

Keep the headboards, if you do encounter any condensation they'll keep your pillows off the walls and dry ..... it's fully insulated and has a heater so you probably won't need them but never say never.

The floor needs replacing, probably an obvious answer Twisted Evil in all honesty though the rest of it doesn't look that bad Smile The rust may or may not be too bad either, we have an old dandy that looked pretty bad underneath but the chassis is okay now the rust has been rubbed away.
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peridot
Dandy Admin

Posts : 545
Join date : 2012-09-01
Location : Newport

Re: **********

Post by peridot on Wed 12 Jun 2013, 8:51 am

Hi again Mennace Smile

Posting all those photos is a great start to asking for advice. I know you'll get lots from the more experienced folk on here who have done lots of work on older Dandys.

My ability to help will be largely limited to electrics, which won't be your first priority. On the specific question of the 40 amp breaker - this is a residual current device (RCD) aka an earth leakage circuit breaker (ELCB). It doesn't protect against overcurrent (the MCBs to the left of it do that) but trips if there's an imbalance on the live and neutral conductors, which means electricity is going somewhere it shouldn't be (possibly through you if you've touched something live affraid )

The 40amp is just the maximum current it can carry.

The electrics need a bit of tidying up but nothing too shocking there (sorry Cool ). Are there just the mains socket outlets? Things you may want to think about are whether you want to add any 12volt circuits (eg, lighting, water pump) and a leisure battery / charger for use if you haven't got electric hook-up available.

I'll keep an eye on the thread and chip in any advice where I think it might be helpful.

Good luck with your restoration project. That first picture of the workshop will have many of us here salivating with excitement bounce


EDIT: Another quick thought - you may want to consider a front box on the A-frame for gas cylinders / battery / storage.
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Tow Itch
Dandy Expert

Posts : 3175
Join date : 2011-06-20
Location : Leigh Gtr Manchester

Re: **********

Post by Tow Itch on Wed 12 Jun 2013, 2:36 pm

Lots of photos. Many of them showing things that are or might be problems. It's odd also that while many of us have a loose idea of how things are we would have to look at our own Dandys and those parts to say for sure. Unless a person has had a problem with component X they tend not to know that much about component X. Or certainly they don't know about it off the top of their heads.

 General Impression from photos. I think that your Dandy has got wet over a protracted period of time. If there is not either; a visible perception, an olfactory perception (it smells of mould) or the unit sweats when erected I'd try a damp meter. If the readings from that are low then someone did a thorough job of drying the Dandy out. Unfortunately you are still left with  water marks and warped kitchen units, side panels and floor.
 What is the unit like now? Ye verily getting the Dandy into spiffing condition would be a wizard idea and we should attend with lashings of help and advice but cripes if your plans were waylayed  you may have nothing to bunk down in over summer.
 http://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/culturenews/8850281/Drat-Spiffing-old-words-dying-out-soz.html Think the term spiffing was last used in a Biggles' novel see Biggles Buggers His Observer or possibly used by Enid Blyton in a Famous Five book.  

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 If you can get some use out of the Dandy try a few camps so you can decide that it is for you before you embark on the work.

 The beds have been weakened by water I believe. I'm not sure how many square section tubes the underbed should have but think it presently has additional ones to allow for the fact that strength has been lost from the ply. Don't think Phoenix's rebuild will help as pre the aluminium frame I think the bed had even fewer stays. They are C section tube anyway [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] I presume the longitudinal planking was because the strength had gone from the ply. Both beds are just standard exterior grade ply. Though I can't remember the thickness. I'll look under my beds to see how many stays they have. The reinforcing tube I'm unsure where to obtain from. It may well be like the sections the frame is built from and quite thin walled.

 Beyond the damage to the wood from water. Any rust on tubes should be removed but be aware that the tubing is of a very thin section  [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] It can be replaced as is or a thicker section used.

 The floor is OSB for a couple of pounds greater expense I'd use an exterior ply.

 Do you have the short tubes to get the settee to sit up? 

 The gas pipe on the kitchen is only so close to the box because of the warping. The really thin section ply for the front of the kitchen is available from caravan suppliers or you can use a slightly thicker grade.

 An odd pace to bring the electrics on board. If you are renewing the floor you can review that. Peridot mentioned about a gas and battery holder. We are not allowed to do new installations with batteries and gas in the same box. The amount of vent in that box is such that I would not be concerned if both battery and gas were in it. I think you will find yours was that way all along (Hint) Actually as the gas store has no back and only half a bottom why is it called a box at all?

navver

Posts : 995
Join date : 2013-01-03

Re: **********

Post by navver on Wed 12 Jun 2013, 2:50 pm

The electrics consumer unit looks modern and the correct type, 40A RCD main switch and 6A and 10A MCBs for circuits. The earth is connected to some metal. It should be connected to the chassis of the Dandy. Not sure if the metal it is connected to is part of the chassis. Any electrics should have a test every 5 years by an electrician.

Put the cover on the electric mains inlet socket. (Blue thing with a white circular cover dangling down under the side). You need to keep that clean and dry, that's what the cover is for.

I think mine only has about 3 square section tubes under the bed.

The suspension looks a bit low and may need to be replaced.

Good luck with it
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Tow Itch
Dandy Expert

Posts : 3175
Join date : 2011-06-20
Location : Leigh Gtr Manchester

Re: **********

Post by Tow Itch on Wed 12 Jun 2013, 3:20 pm

When I said that the electric hook up socket was in an unusual place I meant as the A frame end is almost always closest to the hook up point. So you would now be trailing the coupling under 4 foot of Dandy or through the awning. Also the edge of the plug projected meaning it could be the first thing to make contact and be damaged by a scrape. 

 I'm not too worried by the position of the brake cable in relation to the heater. Uncertain of the normal position but the wall the cable is touching is the outside wall of the heater and so not that hot. Check the cable and the box for any sign of the cable having melted in the past. In case the heater has not been used check again after heater use.

 I'd only want to comment on the suspension upon seeing the clearance above the wheel.
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ShaunJUK

Posts : 590
Join date : 2011-09-26
Age : 37
Location : Grimsby

Re: **********

Post by ShaunJUK on Wed 12 Jun 2013, 4:31 pm


- I have more than enough tools for the job

Now that looks a fun place to be Very Happy
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Phoenix
Dandy Expert

Posts : 1435
Join date : 2011-09-07
Location : South Norfolk.

Re: **********

Post by Phoenix on Wed 12 Jun 2013, 7:18 pm

Hello again Mennace.

There is no point in us trying to tell you everything in one post, we would be here hours and we are not the quickest of typers.lol!

As far as costs go we think we probably spent between £500 and £600 pounds rebuilding Phoenix, but that did include tyres and a new cover as well as new sides, floor etc.

Everything is going to depend upon how far you want to go. Do you want to replace the floor or do you want to repair it? If you are going to replace it we would start there. Bottom up so to speak. We agree with Mr Itch if you are replacing it go for marine ply. If you are replacing it that is the time to sort out the chassis if needed. We saw you had a hump in the floor in your photos that could be caused by the floor. We do have a slight curve in our chassis which is caused by the welding  process causing slight shrinkage on the welded side. 

Not 100% sure what the original black stuff on the underside is but we sprayed schiltz on ours which is the same stuff they put on the underside of cars to protect from rust and moisture. Another you could use is Tetraseal.

As far as getting bits most things are readily available form 3 or 4 suppliers.

1 Steel Merchant
2 Timber Merchant 
3 Fasteners and Fixings Supplier
4 A good DIY Store

Hope this is of help, any questions fire away.Very Happy

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